From the Festung Hohensalzburg, the fortified stone redoubt above the glorious Austrian city where Mozart was born, the old town presents a serene, unruffled vista. But look closer. Down on the Getreidegasse, a narrow medieval street near the Salzach River that is now a pedestrian mall, a motley multinational horde is snapping photos of the ancient house where young Wolfgang first quickened to the sound of his father's violin. Huge tour buses rumble down the streets and across the bridges, daily following the shade of Julie Andrews into the movie-set countryside. The garages are jammed, the restaurants are packed, and there...
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