Food: Fancy Is as Fancy Does

New taste fashions for the gourmet trade

There was chokingly sweet carrot butter, which the manufacturer claimed makes men think "they have died and gone to heaven." Also sour-sweet and metallic- tasting salad dressings "designed" by Gloria Vanderbilt and fool-the-eye chocolate Buffalo chicken wings packed with a container of blue-cheese dip. Something called Cowboy Caviar, made in California, was based on an old recipe for a Russian eggplant appetizer; and Le Brut d'Escargot, from France, proved to be ghostly, ghastly white snail's eggs that tasted like salty paregoric.

These were only a few of the specialties on the bizarre menu introduced to buyers for gourmet grocery stores at...

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