In The Zone: The End of an American Enclave

The reflected lights of Panama City dance impishly on the waters of the bay as Lucho Azcarraga and his band play Auld Lang Syne at Fred Cotton's farewell party on the grounds of the Amador Officer's Club. There are more than 250 guests, nearly all of them middle-aged and conspicuously American, wearing colorful shirts and dresses, Hawaiian leis draped around their necks. Azcarraga's pudgy fingers are surprisingly agile on the organ keyboard as he pumps out the Scottish farewell. But then they should be. Although he is over 70, he plays this tune quite often. Most of the guests get to...

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