Cinema: Meatless Friday

He clips his words in the same brusque spirit his barber clips his crew cut. He wears a suit he must have found at a time warp's going-out-of-business sale, smokes unfiltered cigarettes and eats chili dogs as if there were no radicchio. He believes in virginity, the 55-m.p.h. speed limit and that old- time religion. Welcome back, Sergeant Joe Friday.

Well, not the Joe Friday, Jack Webb's immortally stylized police professional, but rather old Joe's nephew, encased in the comical form of Dan Aykroyd. A true inheritor of the manners and morals of the '50s, he is a cop whose unhappy...