Food: 21 And Still Counting

. . . Will gourmet food ruin a landmark restaurant?

Finally the wraps are off. The "21" Club, New York City's legendary oasis for high-rolling power brokers and celebrity watchers, opened its famed iron gates after a four-month face-lift, a reported $8 million exercise in cosmetic surgery that included the premises, the food and the menu as well. The big question: Has "21" changed? Has the new owner-management team dared to alter the setting or, even worse, change the food? Do they still make the famous hamburger? And, in effect, will we still be able to love it and hate it?

Not that anyone with eyes or a palate could possibly...

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