The Germans are really strange people. With their profound thoughts and ideas, which they seek everywhere and project into everything, they make life harder for themselves than they should.
--Goethe
At Checkpoint Charlie, the hideous maw of the Berlin Wall gapes briefly, affording a narrow passage into the divided German soul. On its Western side, a sea of sensuous color rushes down the Kurfurstendamm, past the ruins of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, and spends itself violently but impotently in a scatological orgy of graffiti against the cold barrier. On the Eastern side, a pall hangs over the city, reflected in...
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