In Vermont: Making Beer the Old-Fashioned Way

A little national-pride music, maestro. Thank you. Our very own United States of America (rooty-toot-toot) makes the best TV beer commercials (tantara) in the universe. Nobody else is close, unless it is some race of advertising geniuses in the Crab nebula, and that is not close, and anyway the Crabs do not have John Madden or Mickey Spillane, so forget them.

However -- some really gloomy national-shame music now, if you please -- it is also true that most of what the U.S. makes and labels as beer (gronk, honk, sound of oboists performing underwater) is fizzed up and flavorless, the...