When home economists ran the kitchen, recipes read like laboratory reports, and human voices could rarely be discerned above the instructions for tsp. and tbsp. But that was a generation ago. Today cooking has become a prime medium for self-expression, television has made superstars of once anonymous chefs, and the voices of food writers resound through their works.
Betty Fussell's I Hear America Cooking (Viking; $24.95), for example, carries the sonorous subtitle "A Journey of Discovery from Alaska to Florida -- the Cooks, the Recipes, and the Unique Flavors of Our National Cuisine." The problem is, her self-imposed "time frame" forces...
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