Geneva's shining city greets the eye:/Proud, noble, wealthy, deep, and sly.
--Voltaire
It has been the worst of winters. Temperatures down to -14 0 F. Shards of ice glittering on the Gothic towers of John Calvin's church, the Cathedral of St. Peter. The glacial wind known as the bise whipping the beautiful lake into whitecaps all along the quais that fan out from the Mont Blanc Bridge. Just last month, two feet of snow suddenly blocked all avenues to the Palais des Nations, the U.N.'s European headquarters, and forced the postponement of an international conference on human rights. Incroyable. Nobody could...