To Michael Fey, it is the "most important advance in dietary health since the invention of pasteurization." To Denis Mosgofian, it is the "massacre of the American food supply." Fey, a food scientist, works for a company called Radiation Technology. Mosgofian is director of the National Coalition to Stop Food Irradiation. The two men are talking -- yelling, really -- about one of the most emotional health issues of the 1980s: the use of irradiation as a preservative. The mixing of gamma rays with edibles has set off a nuclear food-chain reaction, releasing high rhetoric, short tempers and mass uncertainty.
The...