Antipasto, move over! Hors d'oeuvres, make room! The new rage in appetizer assortments hails from Spain, and its name is tapas. Although at first glance the word looks a little like something spelled backward, tapas has a meaning all its own. In Spain, at the sherry-sipping hours before lunch and dinner, bars offer an array of small dishes, hot and cold, to whet appetites for dinner and develop a thirst for further drinking. The convivial custom is popular from Barcelona to Seville, but Penelope Casas, in her cookbook Tapas: The Little Dishes of Spain (Knopf), speculates that it began about a...
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