On clear nights airline pilots can see the shimmering marble flanks of the Washington Monument for 25 miles, and they bank into their landing pattern as the faithful sentinel looks on. Laid out as a city of circles and curves, Washington can be a bewildering maze to visitors. But they can see the brave silhouette from almost anywhere in the District of Columbia and use it as a compass to locate other monuments and eventually to find their way out of the great, gray federal wilderness.
Mornings near sunrise, John Williams, a national park service ranger at the monument grounds, wheels...