$ "When Andre was ten, I was ill for three weeks. He did all of the cooking for his father, his brother and himself. Even pastries. I had never noticed that he was in the kitchen often, or that he watched or asked me questions and I never tried to teach him. But suddenly, he simply began to cook . . . Il est encore mon petit garcon."
-- Mimi Soltner, 78, in Guebwiller,
Mrs. Soltner's little boy Andre is still cooking, and how! Now 53, he has spent almost half of his life in the kitchen of Lutece, the...