Food: Just Name Your Poisson

Once a penance, fish is now posh pleasure

Dogfish. Monkfish. Stingray. Weakfish. Mahi Mahi. Orange roughy. Opakapaka. Five years ago, few of those salt water creatures would have been likely candidates for the dinner table, either at home or in restaurants. Now Americans are hooked on fish. They are ordering not only such old standards as sole, salmon, striped bass and swordfish but the more exotic species as well. Restaurants and markets across the country tally big increases in sales of shellfish and finfish. The experience of Inland Seafood Corp., a wholesale distributor of fresh and high-quality frozen fish in Atlanta, is typical. "Our sales have increased about 20%...

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