Food: Moderne Is Newer Than Nouvelle

Cabbage, ravioli and mashed potatoes take Paris by storm

Put away the kiwis. Strike the pink peppercorns. Forget everything you were just beginning to like about vegetable pates and the grilled rare duck breast, magret de canard. The days of the nouvelle cuisine and its culinary trademarks are numbered. What the savviest chefs in France are cooking up now is being hailed as cuisine moderne, a blend of the classic and the nouvelle. Some observers prefer to call this new cooking actuelle (what is really being cooked today), while others describe it as libre (free), personnalisee (personalized) or, perhaps most appropriately, courante (trendy).

Although there is some argument as to...

Want the full story?

Subscribe Now


Get TIME the way you want it

  • One Week Digital Pass — $4.99
  • Monthly Pay-As-You-Go DIGITAL ACCESS$2.99
  • One Year ALL ACCESSJust $30!   Best Deal!
    Print Magazine + Digital Edition + Subscriber-only Content on

Learn more about the benefits of being a TIME subscriber

If you are already a subscriber sign up — registration is free!