Starting Over in Kampala Peace slowly revives a country shattered by war and atrocity

The relics of Uganda's bloody past are everywhere. Tanks rust along the roads, and shell holes pockmark buildings. In the villages north of Kampala, the capital, big plastic bags bulge with bright white human skulls, femurs and tibias, the grisly remains of some of the estimated 1 million victims of two decades of government atrocity, tribal conflict and civil war. Now the nearly four-year-old regime of President Yoweri Museveni is talking about preserving these bones, perhaps in a museum, as a memorial to a time that everyone in Uganda hopes is over.

Peace has come to most of the country, and...

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