Food: The Game Is Up!

Game Is Up! Deer, boar and other woodland creatures are appearing on more menus

Memere's, a Louisiana-style restaurant in Oak Park, Ill., has a loyal clientele for its rattlesnake gumbo. The New Deal restaurant in New York City's Soho is corralling herds of diners with its beaver empanada, kangaroo yakitori and black-buck antelope. Next month Fallow Deer Associates of Hudson, N.Y., will begin supplying health-food stores with prepackaged ground venison and venison burgers.

Licking their chops at Americans' growing taste for game, restaurants are now serving more of it than ever before. Food Arts, a magazine for professional chefs and restaurateurs, puts game high on its list of gastronomically fashionable items this fall. Four years...

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