There are many places in Europe where tour buses should not go. Unfortunately there are far fewer where they cannot go. One such rare route is the full, looping length of the river Seine as it winds its way through central Paris toward the English Channel. This is the waterway of kings and conquerors, of ruined abbeys, gothic trees, half-timbered farmhouses and pastoral symphonies on either bank. Until this summer, visitors who wished to savor the creamy countryside of Normandy had to cope with traffic and train schedules. But now, if they wish, they can finally take to the water and...
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