Food: When Women Man the Stockpots

After ages laboring in the kitchen, females are earning the title of chef

Men are chefs. Women are cooks. Or at least that was once the conventional view. No longer. Now, whether in their own restaurants or as employees, women across the U.S. have earned their toques as chefs: the leaders of kitchen staffs, not merely cooks who work at their own stations. To suggest a woman as chef even ten years ago would have prompted laughter. Women, went the old calumny, are not creative enough to be chefs. And anyway, how could they lift those hot 60-qt. stockpots? "Very carefully," says Joan Woodhull, 20, a recent graduate of the Culinary Institute of America...

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