Khorramshahr was once a bustling port with a population of 150,000. Weeks of fierce house-to-house fighting between Iran's fanatical Revolutionary Guards and Iraqi infantrymen have turned it into a ghost town, as its inhabitants have fled inland to the safety of mountain camps or bolted across the contested Shatt al Arab waterway to seek refuge in Basra. On a tour of Khorramshahr last week, TIME Correspondent William Drozdiak found very few signs of life; emaciated dogs foraged for scraps in the rubble, swarthy Iraqi soldiers lounged in the shade as they listened to the echo of sporadic shelling in...
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