Living: Dictator of Dining Out

Restaurant Critic Mimi Sheraton is feared and followed

Finally someone hit back. When Mimi Sheraton, restaurant critic of the New York Times and the most influential commentator on dining out in America, was spotted at a table in a new Manhattan spot, the owner threw her out. Fumed Michael O'Keeffe, proprietor of the Water Club: "The public loves something, then a critic comes along and says it's not good." O'Keeffe's stand was brave but futile. Sheraton took to her Friday column last week and described the encounter in her usual remorseless detail, ending with some speculation on the rights of an orderly...

Want the full story?

Subscribe Now

Subscribe
Subscribe

Get TIME the way you want it

  • One Week Digital Pass — $4.99
  • Monthly Pay-As-You-Go DIGITAL ACCESS$2.99
  • One Year ALL ACCESSJust $30!   Best Deal!
    Print Magazine + Digital Edition + Subscriber-only Content on TIME.com

Learn more about the benefits of being a TIME subscriber

If you are already a subscriber sign up — registration is free!