In February 1939, when a Spanish-born artist named Pablo Picasso first appeared on TIME's cover, the accompanying story took note of his controversial celebrity: "For 30 years ... the very name of Picasso has been a symbol of irresponsibility to the old, of audacity to the young. To millions of solid citizens it has been one of the two things they know about modern art—the other being that they don't like it." How times, and tastes, have changed. Every day for the next four months, 8,000 "solid citizens," clutching coveted tickets, will stream through...
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