Twenty years later, it still scars the mindgray and brooding, the 103-mile-long concrete barrier known universally as the Wall. Willy Brandt was mayor of West Berlin when the East Germans sealed the border virtually overnight. Last week, in its own schizophrenic way, the city that incarnates all of the tragedy of Europe's brutal division between East and West marked the latest anniversary of the monument to repression.
In West Berlin three East German refugees held a hunger strike, and protesters built a replica of the Wall to block the office of Aeroflot, the Soviet airline. Only a few miles away, in the...