Living: Devouring a Small Country Inn

Octopus, veal, mussels, mousses and unwelcome fame

Next to blabbing of his amours, the most heinous offense a gentleman may commit is to divulge the name and whereabouts of that movable mecca, the small, inexpensive, discrete, family owned restaurant with a menu of rare enticements and threefork ambience. The temptation to tell can be strong. John McPhee, 48, author of the bestselling portrait of Alaska, Coming into the Country, and other books, not only is a gentleman but a gourmet and a cook; he is also a compulsive describer. He compromised. In the Feb....

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