At 5 o'clock every weekday afternoon, the tractors begin returning to the Cacebres Cooperative near the Portuguese town of Alcácer do Sal. Behind them, through the gates decorated with the hammer and sickle, come truckloads of workers returning from the fields. Many of them are women, attired, as they have been for centuries, in full black dresses over thick trousers, their hair covered by black kerchiefs knotted under black felt hats. "This cooperative has 10,000 acres, and it all used to belong to two men who only hired a few workers when they needed...
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