The Nation: It's Riunite Time. . .

Say, kids, what time is it? It's time . . . for a little blast of sauce! That, at least, is the essence of Buffalo Bob's new radio pitch. On the old Howdy Doody show, the lovable Bob, when not embroiled in the Byzantine struggles for pre-eminence in Doodyville, waged by Howdy and the nefarious, Mr. Bluster, used to sell Welch's grape juice to the kiddies. Now that his former audience is well of age, Bob's spiel has fermented; he is selling Riunite wine.

The commercial is really just a peculiar twist to Madison Avenue's increasingly tiresome obsession with nostalgia. Ole Bob,...

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