Modern Living: Mourning Meal

Winston Churchill liked to start the day with a bit of grouse and a dollop of caviar. These days at 10 Downing Street, Prime Minister Wilson often greets the morning with a plateful of steamed turbot. For passengers on the daily Brighton Belle train to London, it is buttered kippers or poached eggs on haddock. At certain inns across the countryside, morning brings York ham, Lancashire black pudding, deviled kidneys and broiled mushrooms. Indeed, Somerset Maugham's classic gustatory advice to overseas visitors still holds: one can eat well in Britain if one eats three breakfasts a day.

How much longer appears to...