Food: Trompe I'Oeil Restaurant

Simply arriving at a Larry Ellman restaurant can be a challenge to belief. A diner bound for Manhattan's Orangerie, for instance, can be picked up and delivered at the restaurant by a customer-service Citroën painted all over with orange blossoms. In the foyer he passes a concierge ready to order theater tick ets or call home to see if the wife and children are O.K. Seated on a black vinyl banquette beneath the leaves of a plastic orange tree, he swills down a triple martini poured from a Boodles bottle and served in a pitcher. By then he may...

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