SICILY: In Darkest Southern Europe

As the ancient steam-driven train from Palermo chugged out of the Sicilian hill town of Zucco-Montelepre one night last week, four masked men emerged from the shadows and hopped aboard the mail car. Guns drawn, they warned the lone mail clerk not to move or they would kill him. Ripping open mail sacks, they collected $19,000, then jumped from the train, leaving the clerk trussed up on the floor. The stationmaster back in Zucco-Montelepre's rickety railroad station, which is eerily lit by flickering oil lamps, allowed as how he had seen the...

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