In Cyprus the days were hot and the guns, for the moment, were cold. Turkish and Greek Cypriot sentries stood listlessly at the sandbagged strongpoints. Under watchful eyes of U.N. escorts, farmers drove their tractors through fields, bringing in the wheat harvest. At Nicosia's Ledra Palace Hotel, a new swimming pool was dedicated with a cocktail party. Not far away, a new Hilton was abuilding.
Yet everyone knew that each evening, when the sun fell behind the Troodos Mountains, the smuggling of men and arms into the island resumed, making peace an...
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