Art: The Real Van Gogh

"You know the painter at Ravoux's, the one we call Le Rouquin [The Redhead]? He has shot himself with a pistol in the park behind the chateau." So, recalls 89-year-old Henry Maurage, the news that Vincent Van Gogh was dead swept through the obscure town of Auvers-sur-Oise one Sunday in July 1890. Since then the small town where Van Gogh ended his tortured life and the tiny room where he lived have become historical shrines.

Pilgrims making the journey last week found the presence of Van Gogh evoked by a larger-than-life (10½ ft., 880 Ibs.) bronze statue that is in many ways...

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