The Theater: Old Musical in Madrid

"Magnificent!" exclaimed the critics. "Spain has never seen anything like this." Spain had not. While bullfight tickets went begging, the carriage trade last week was paying up to five times the normal price to squeeze into Madrid's musty old Teatro de la Zarzuela and see the greatest hit in Spanish theatrical history. The hit: Al Sur del Pacifico. Translation: South Pacific.

Despite wrenching translations and ironfisted Spanish censorship, the show retained a surprising amount of its pace and charm. Spain's top scenic designer, Sigfredo Burman, speckled the mythical isle of Bali Ha'i with miniature lights that blink by night, put ripples in...

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