Like many a U.S. school, Moscow's P.S. 29 is big and boxlike. Pigtailed scholars play hopscotch outside its walls, and butterfly collections hang unnoticed beside crude crayon drawings in its corridors. Each room has large portraits of Lenin and Stalin. "What's the difference between them?" a TIME reporter asked a first-grade class. An eager little girl answered: "Lenin is dead. Stalin is not."
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