Books: In the Land of Far Beyond

JOURNEY TO KARS by Philip Glazebrook; 246 pages; Atheneum; $12.95

Before beginning a slow lap around Turkey, before numberless encounters with melons, rugs, mustaches and ruins, Philip Glazebrook asks his big question: "What was the impulse which drove middle-class Victorians to leave the country they loved so chauvinistically, and the company of the race they considered God's last word in breeding, to travel in discomfort, danger, illness, filth and misery among Asiatics whose morals and habits they despised?"

His answer, skillfully shuttled through the narrative of his own journey, is that the adventurers of...

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