Living: A Boom in Mushrooms

The once lowly Morchella is a culinary Cinderella

The prisoner on death row was asked what he would like for his last meal. "A wild-mushroom omelet," he said. "I never had the courage to try one before."

Like the condemned man of the anecdote, most Americans still recoil instinctively from any kind of mushroom that is not snow white, cellophane wrapped and supermarket sanitized. In the past few years, however, the succulent edible fungi that grow wild for the picking in almost every part of the country have found ever increasing acceptance in restaurant and home menus. At Dean & DeLuca, a Manhattan...

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