Arise, walk through the land in the length of it and in the breadth of it.
—Genesis 13:17
To go from Belfast to Israel is to be shot from a cold dark into an astonishing light, but one with a darkness inside it.
For the Israeli children the darkness is composed of apprehension and memory; apprehension felt mainly in the north, where towns lie open to terrorists and Katyusha rockets; memory felt everywhere in a land that is itself a child of war, where even the youngest know of places like Auschwitz and Dachau. For the Arab...
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