Business: Grand Alliances

France joins the wine rush

More than a century ago, a group of French oenologists toured the California coastal region and reported in the prestigious Revue Vinicole Internationale: "California has a climate that makes it capable some day of becoming a serious competitor to France in the production of fine wines." Some day may finally have arrived. Now three of the proudest names in French wine-making have established West Coast annexes: Moēt-Hennessey, Château Mouton-Rothschild and Piper-Heidsieck.

Moēt arrived in 1973, laying out some $20 million over the years for 1,500 Napa Valley acres on...

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