Living: Of Aeroflot, Volgas and the Flu

Some joys and sorrows of the Soviet way

PLANE SPEAKING

For passengers of Aeroflot, the Soviet national airline, life is rarely just up, up and away. Among the world's carriers, Aeroflot belongs in the white-knuckle class; its safety record is somewhat cloudy since domestic crashes are rarely announced unless foreigners are aboard. Aeroflot food is all but inedible, with garlic sometimes being the only identifiable ingredient. It is wise to accept one of the gray paper bags offered before takeoff; they can be in great demand during the flight.

Just getting aloft presents its challenges. Planes regularly land and take off not just hours...

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