Menu chopped, may sue
Restaurant critics for U.S. newspapers tend to be sycophantic or ingenuous or both. Not Mimi Sheraton, the gustatory Boadicea of the New York Times. Her knowledge of food is almost as encyclopedic as the Larousse Gastronomique's, her judgments as potent as the Guide Michelin's. When La Sheraton damns a bistro, its owners have been known to look around for a safe job in, say, the bond market.
One of Sheraton's severest verdicts in her nearly four years on the job was passed last month on an opulent new Chinese restaurant in midtown Manhattan called Dish of Salt. Not a...
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