In Rhode Island: Rapture of the Shallows

The Aquatic, a noisy, diesel-driven 40-ft. private sub tender chugs out of Warwick Cove into a gray Rhode Island day. Past rows of boats with names like Many-Ha-Ha's, Daddy's Girl, Lucy M and Gyp Sea. Past a dock where burlap sacks of clams are bought and sold —the seller getting 55¢ per lb. for littlenecks, as high as 80¢ for big quahogs. Past a sandbar where a tourist drowned yesterday clamming in 3 ft. of water. Past the big shingled mansions that trim the shoreline at fashionable Warwick Neck. And so into Narragansett Bay,...

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