The nine inhabited islands of the Azores archipelago (pop. 300,000) look like a setting for a Graham Greene novel. Sheer rocky cliffs drop abruptly to the Atlantic, while the lush, subtropical countryside spreads out in a crazy quilt of farm plots separated by rock fences. Late each day, young and old alike gather under plane trees in the colorful town squares to catch a little relief from the heat and oppressive humidity, and to talk.
These days the talk is likely to turn quickly to the question of independence. As mainland Portugal drifts toward...
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