Horns blaring raucously, swarms of cars and taxis swirl madly around the South Gate, an old entryway into the raffish, jostling metropolis of Seoul, South Korea. Throngs of Korean, American, European and Japanese businessmen pile into cabarets and assorted pleasure domes. Then, just before midnight, the pleasure seekers rush home to beat the midnight curfew, and the lights start winking out. A few miles away, villagers desert quiet country lanes for tile-or thatch-roofed cottages. And a few miles beyond that, perhaps an hour's drive from the teeming capital and its 6.5 million...
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