The dusty plaza of Navojoa in the Mexican state of Sonora was a sea of straw-colored Stetsons. Campaign placards floated above the farmers, providing a little shade from the intense noonday sun. A psychedelic rock band with gigantic amplifiers competed with ranchero singers, backed by trumpets and violins, across the square. As the din crescendoed, railway workers forming a canyon through the crowd swung their matracas (rattles) wildly. With hand stretched high in salute, a robust man in a white guayabera (tropical shirt) jogged up to the speaker's platform. The crowd broke...
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