Books: Galloping Gourmand

ALICE, LET'S EAT by Calvin Trillin

Random House; 182 pages; $7.95

A gourmet is someone who would not fly from New York to Nebraska simply to check out a steakhouse rumored to serve beef in the rough shape and size of a softball. A gourmand is someone who would. Author Calvin Trillin did. His conclusion: "I've tasted worse steaks." Trillin, however, has an edge on his fellow gluttons, whom he describes as Big Hungry Boys. A peripatetic correspondent for The New Yorker for the past eleven years, he has an excuse to roam the country...

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