In the room at the Holiday Inn in Tupelo, Miss., there are no towels. But there is a fly swatter with a sign on its handle that reads FOR EMERGENCY USE ONLY. A visitor in Tupelo gets told again and again, "This town could be the model for all other Southern towns." On normal Saturday mornings, the main street fills up peaceably with shoppers, black and white, from all over Lee County, plus a sprinkling of reverent tourists looking for Elvis Presley's birthplace.
On this Saturday morning, seven Ku Klux Klansmen are sitting at...
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