Books: Spoiling the Broth

EATING IN AMERICA by WAVERLEY ROOT and RICHARD DE ROCHEMONT 512 pages. Morrow. $16.95.

In France, cooking has been described as the art of making leftovers taste good. In America, cooking is usually considered a chore, not an art, and leftovers are to be swallowed with one's pride. But 400 years on the alimentary canal is not a long stretch for the development of a national cuisine. Europeans had more than twice that long. The Chinese have had millenniums. Instead of time, Americans have had abundance—and a level of consumption triumphantly buoyed up by waste. In Eating in America the authors offer...

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