Modern Living: Aztec

Slow at first to make itself felt, tequila after two or three rounds comes on like a mariachi band. Mexico's national spirit has crept up on the U.S.

market in much the same way. Before 1970, liquor stores used to stock tequila —if they carried it at all—on a back shelf alongside ouzo and grappa. In the past five years, however, annual imports have increased more than 400%; where only a handful of brands were available north of the border ten years ago, some 250 labels are now registered, accounting for total yearly sales...