For TIME'S chief European correspondent William Rademaekers, this week's Conference on Security and Cooperation in Europe is the most recent in a 20-year series of cold war "thaws" and crises that he has covered. Arriving in Europe in 1955 at the time of the spirit of Geneva, the first of the elusive efforts at superpower détente, Rademaekers, who speaks fluent Hungarian, was soon covering the Soviet invasion of Hungary. Like other Western journalists in the late '50s he could not get visas for Eastern European countries. When the cold war eased in the mid-'60s he found visas often did not help...
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