In Wyoming: Greasy Work at the Crossroads

The scar on Steven Shepherd's 26-year-old belly looks like a zipper. His faded brown shirt is open, and the scar is the first thing you notice. "It's a splenectomy," he informs. "Hodgkin's disease. I spent a year in the hospital with chemotherapy and cobalt treatments. Now they say it's regressed." It is the beginning of another day in Evanston, Wyo. (pop. 4,848; elevation 6,748 ft.), and while Shepherd talks, the oil and water stains on the cement driveway of the A & A Texaco station are turned to rainbows by the morning sun.


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