RUMANIA: Is Dracula Really Dead?

Have you seen that awful den of hellish infamy—with the very moonlight alive with grisly shapes? Have you felt the Vampire's lips upon your throat?

—From Dracula by Bram Stoker

For devotees of Stoker's famed 1897 thriller and of the 100 or so horror movies it inspired,* Count Dracula's domain in Transylvania has long been a place of pilgrimage. Every year hundreds of Americans and Europeans visit Rumania for government-organized Dracula tours of spooky castles that were supposedly once inhabited by the Transylvanian ghoul. Many of the tourists who climb secret staircases...

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